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Peava |
is a tiny lagoon inside a coral reef that sits on the edge of Nggatokae Island very near the Marovo Lagoon. |
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Wilderness Lodge |
is a semi-pretentious place that told us they'd prefer if we anchored someplace else. All that being said, their staff was very gracious and we politely told them we'd stay where we were since the chief - and owner of the bay - had already told us we were fine where we were. |
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Cottage |
nestled in the woods overlooking the sea, the trees above filled with exotic birds, this seemed like a perfect little place to settle. |
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Finding Lisa |
an American running a SCUBA school, involved walking a well worn path along the sea . |
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Lisa's |
place was marked by this original lovely carving....we knew we'd found a special spot and anticipated meeting a unique person. |
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Pint-Sized Dugouts |
padded by pint-sized beauties were frequent visitors at Carina. |
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Mbili |
is the gateway to the magnificent Marovo Lagoon. |
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Marovo Laggoon |
water was a brilliant turquoise but sometimes a wee bit opague. Our hosts suggested that we not engage in swimming inside the lagoon but instead just outside the entrance. Seems they don't want yacht visitors to be preyed upon by the occasional hungry croc. |
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Just around the |
island from our anchorage we found shallows with a coral garden and water so clear you could count the brilliant little fish living on the coral. |
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Sealife |
is abundant in the lagoon and - if Philip liked calamari - we couldn've eaten well. These silly guys just hung out under Carina enjoying her shadow. |
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Marovo Lagoon is known |
for its master carvers and their work is extraordinary. |
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Milton |
brought by this bust which we admired but found impractical aboard a boat. |
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This is Lee |
who is showing us his magnificent scene of sea life, known generically as the "spirit of the Solomons". |
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This mask |
was made of kerosene wood by Paul, son of the chief. We eventually obtained this in trade. |
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Ebony |
is not as common as other wood but is highly prized. Inlay is of nautilus shell. |
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Nguzu Nguzu |
is a powerful god in the Solomons. Some hold a dove and symbolize peace and others hold a skull symbolizing the kastom practice of head hunting |
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In ebony |
a nguzu nguzu is usually magnficent. Historically, these would adorn the prow of a war canoe. |
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Nguzu nguzu |
carvings reflect the artist's interpretation of the god's likeness. |
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Attention to detail |
characterises the carvings of the masters. |
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This motif |
is a common one...a shell bowl inlaid with nautilus. |
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Rustic accommodations |
await guests at the eco-lodge on Nggatokae Island's northern tip. |
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Luten Watts |
is the proprietor of the eco-lodge. A tiny gnome-like man of 70, he has borne 8 children and has 25 grandchildren. |
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This B-24 |
crash site from WWII was a tour offered by Luten. It sits just ashore in the bay south of Mbili pass. |
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Luten |
gives the propeller a bit of perspective - this was a big plane! |
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Identifying |
marks are still evident 70 years later |
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Four engines |
propelled the B-24. We found all four of them including this one that was home to a camouflaged gecko. |
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Deep inside |
the Marovo Lagoon, we anchored in a bay called Kalivera Bay. Rain and wind found us here, snug and warm. We filled our water tanks. |
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from the Marovo |
Lagoon, we passed into the Nono Lagoon and then out, up the Blanche Channel and in the narrow entrance to Egholo, also known as Butterfly Bay. |
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Ngana Bozi |
was the village organizer and clan chief. His family were SDA but a good half of the village were United Church. This might not seem significant in the USA, but in the Solomons religion and clan divide peoples. |
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Egholo |
was about 7 ocean miles from the nearest supply town, Munda. Villagers in the western province travel by sea in small dugout canoes or in these larger engine driven cousins. |
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Egholo's |
pass provides good fishing. This young woman caught this needlefish from the shore. |
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A carver named Songa |
arrived at Carina after many other traders had come and gone. He knew - because word had gotten around - that we only wanted a round bowl of rosewood with inlay. This is the bowl he offered. After a long negotiation and a package of trading items plus Solomon dollars and US dollars, we acquired this beauty. |
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Egholo |
was a peaceful place...here a moon just past full rises slowly over the vibrant jungle. |
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Catching Up with Tribute |
Shane, Larry and John join Philip at the Agnes Lodge bar. |
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Bungalow in Paradise |
during an afternoon squall in the Munda lagoon. |
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Zipolo Habu |
resort occupies tiny Lola Island in the Vonavona Lagoon. |
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Joe & Lisa |
own Zipolo Habu and warmly welcome yachties. Its anchorage is fine and the scenery pleasant. |
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Lola Island |
looks out over the south end of the Vonavona lagoon and one day we followed the bush path to the opposite shore. |
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Lola Island |
looking towards Rendova Island to the SE. |
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Spiders |
The first encouter with these monsters was when Leslie walked into one of their webs....she shrieked. Philip took the lead and swung a long stick ahead as we hiked the bush trail. |
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In Gizo |
we caught up with Tenacious with Brett and Susie aboard. This two day old beauty had been named for Susie. |
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Gizo was |
devastated by a tsunami in 2007. Afterwards volunteers from a church in Italy came and rebuilt St. Peter the Apostle Cathedral and its stained glass represents Biblical scenes with an island accent. |
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The Garden of Eden |
here is tropical and Adam and Eve wear kastom designs. |
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Eden |
may have easily looked like this... |
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Liapari |
from Gizo we traveled just over 14 miles to Liapari Island, a tiny appendage off Vella LaVella Island. Here we would use the slipway to haul Carina for an out of water survey and to change our shaft seal. |
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The "small" slipway |
was well oversized for tiny Carina and she slowly ascended out of the sea, cradled from falling, as the careful Liapari team secured and blocked her. |
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Hauling Out |
is never fun and it's always filled with a wee bit of anxiety. Leslie remained aboard to help as she could. |
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For Two Days |
Carina sat high and dry as we worked from sun-up to sun-down applying a fresh coat of anti-fouling and installing a new shaft seal. Early the following morning Carina's hull would once again lay softly in the sea. |
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