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Bye Bye |
Philippines. Philip shows the tattered courtesy flag, a casualty of beating our way out of the Davao Gulf. The Sarangani Islands are astern. |
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Welcome to Tahuna |
and its rickety dinghy dock. |
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Prayer |
time at the "green" mosque just ashore of the anchorage. |
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Sangihe |
has produced nutmeg, mace and cloves for centuries. This scale has been used for a couple of those centuries...or maybe longer. |
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Old and New... |
traditional garb doesn't preclude texting on a smart phone. |
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Ah, Indonesian |
food. A bad photo but you can get the idea that Philip was anxious to get started eating. |
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Sangihe |
is an island created by a volcanic eruption (or three!). As such, volcanic stone figures prominently in its art. This wash basin was at a modest restaurant in downtown Tahuna. |
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The Festive |
festival logo |
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Sangihe Festival |
We were welcomed and adorned with the traditional cap and sash. |
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Hundreds |
of school kids in their finest lined the waterfront. |
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Anxious |
to make a good impression |
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Endearing |
high school students lined up to interview us in English - and to of course take photos |
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Seemingly |
every kid was skilled at managing a smart phone...and snapping photos of the curious outsiders. |
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Even the Little |
boys seemed interested in the proceedings on stage. |
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Each Dignitary |
in turn gave a speech in bahasa Indonesia, including booming animated convocation. |
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The Bupati |
or regent, his assistant, the governor and representatives of the military and church were all in attendance, wearing their best. |
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Mr and Mrs Batik |
from Jakarta asked us to pose for photos and a video saying, "I love batik, you love batik, we love batik, we love Indonesia"! |
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These |
two choirs competed with animated songs that brought many laughs to the officials. The jokes escaped us. |
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A "Brass" |
band of Sangiheans from Papua shared their local culture. We are promised more... |
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Two Men |
staged a dance of soldiers. |
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No one |
was spared the attention of the budding journalists. Katrina had a group of girls who came back and presented her with a shell bracelet to match their own...she had become part of the clique. |
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Some |
like Glenda from Helena, were even interviewed by a crew for television |
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Eva |
from Sail Indonesia was enthusiastic about our visit |
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In the Evening |
there was a cultural show where most of the women performers wore this traditional hairstyle |
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There |
were many troupes of little boys performing dances that were reminiscent of marching soldiers |
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This Dance |
was a dance that seemed to depict domesticity...little girls with purses and little boys outfitted for farming |
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The Elaborate |
costumes of the children represented a lot of work by the communities |
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Each Group |
brought a cadre of community support. |
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Drums |
were a common theme. |
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This Princess |
was in a dance with two young men who were competing for her hand. |
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These Dancers |
from Jakarta performed an elaborate and varied dance. |
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We Just Loved |
the pose that the dancers struck just before they began to dance. |
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Sunday |
was somewhat leisurely with a relaxed trip up Pusunge Hill, Sangihe Island, Indonesia. Carina is bobbing on a mooring in Tahuna Bay below. |
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Monday's |
tour stopped first at a mountain village where a man was making knives from scrap metal. His fire was fueled by bamboo. |
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He Was |
a shy man who was quick to smile and seemingly confident in his skills. |
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Watching |
the chunks of scrap turn from glowing metal to things of beauty was a lovely sight. |
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His Knives |
were truly beautiful tools for (R to L) cutting coconut, trimming grass and use in the kitchen. |
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And Then |
we visited a cottage industry of makers of bamboo furniture. These exquisite pieces were made with only bamboo, rattan and hand tools...hand saws and very sharp knives. |
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The Bamboo |
was dried for at least two weeks and then carefully crafted by a team of men whose women stood by to offer food and refreshments to them. |
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A Complete |
set of furniture for your living room will set you back about 60 dollars. |
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On the Trip |
back, the bus stopped and we all piled out to take note of the palm used for making sagu, an important carbohydrate foodstuff |
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Even Our |
police escorts got into showing the tourists the island. This man was goofing with us about another historic use of the sagu palm. |
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The Following |
day we ventured into a neighborhood right in Tahuna, to visit a maker of bamboo instruments. Katrina of Highway Star was enjoying the walk down the lane... |
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The Modest |
workshop of the master is bathed in the morning light. |
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Given the |
diversity of instruments, a diverse selection of raw materials is required. |
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Jim of |
Odyssey 9 was thrilled to get a bugle for his boat and was happy to pay the maker - who turned out to be reluctant to sell since his instruments are generally made under a band's commission. |
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Katrina |
did a credible job, making the massive tuba erupt in a warm earthy sound |
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A Ride |
through the countryside brought us to a ravine and bridge where we enjoyed the company of our hosts. |
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From There |
onto a stony beach where we did a bit more visiting and beachcombing. |
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April (Araby), Leslie & Glenda (Helena) |
pose on a nasty looking FAD to give you a sense of the size of these hazards to navigation. (JB called this particular one, a GAD or girl attracting device.) |
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Another Day |
found is at the home of the last Raja of Sangihe who was killed by the occupying Japanese during WWII. His great grandson Andris (center, sitting) still owns the regal property but lives in a modest home across the stately, mango shaded lawn. |
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Knowing |
we love culture, our guides arranged for us to take a ride in a bentor...or bento...different from its Philippine cousin, the habal-habal, because the passenger rides in front of the driver rather than aside. |
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Bataha Santiago's |
grave was next. Also a Raja, he resisted the invading Dutch and was hanged in the 17th century. |
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The View |
over Manganitu and distant Tahuna and Mount Awu from the graveside is spectacular. |
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A Bit |
farther down the coast, we entered a village just about the time when the children were out of school for lunch |
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These |
girls were very shy with us. It took a bit of coaxing before they'd pose for a photo. |
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Another Tour |
found is traveling over miles and miles of mountain roads to a village in a protected bay where a future marina is proposed. |
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The Village |
homes were modest...some of the only ones we saw made of traditional materials. |
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We Pushed |
on to Salurang, a village clinging to a sandy spit where we were greeted by dignitaries and presented with a number of traditional dances. |
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And |
the children sang sweetly... |
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These Boys |
concentrated intensely on their carefully choreographed dance. |
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This |
boy took his role in the dance seriously |
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Salurang Also |
possesses beautiful beaches which are accessible only by boat. Our whole group and tour guides were ferried across for a day at the beach |
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For Comfort |
some of us were presented with palm hats. |
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We settled |
into a lovely shady spot and watched the world go by...in this case a Salurang villager returning from his garden using a coconut frond sail to propel his bangka |
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This |
little girl was asked to pose by her Momma but tried to hide behind her fingers as she complied |
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Sandra |
who works in tourism is from the village and jumped right into showing us how to make useful items from palm fronds. She is attempting to teach Leslie to make a katupat, a small woven basket which is filled with rice and boiled. |
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Katupat |
are an environmentally-friendly way to cook and package rice...a staple food all over SE Asia |
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One Villager |
whose name I regret not getting, was a master hat weaver. She made sure each of us left the beach with one of her creations. Claudie of Mystic Rhythms is showing her appreciation. |
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Philip |
enjoying the light and breezy shade of these "once a day" hats. |
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Indonesians |
love to laugh at each other and at visitors. I was casually trying to get a good photo of the elegant traditional packaging for sagu, when suddenly this man leaned back on his motorbike to get in the shot...and laughter erupted all around me. Next thing I know... |
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The Sagu Princess |
(I call her) takes down one of her traditional hats and hurriedly arranges and photo for me. All the while laughter and chatter (in Bahasa Indonesia) continued around me. They made my day and I think, I helped to make theirs. |
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After the Festival Closed |
it was time to push south, against the monsoon winds. Highway Star left after Carina but quickly sailed on by. |
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While We Were... |
shooting Highway Star, they were shooting us...also beating against the monsoon. |
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